The impact of farming on prehistoric culinary practices throughout Northern Europe

Edited by Mehmet Özdoğan, Istanbul Universitesi, Istanbul, Turkey; received June 19, 2023; accepted September 11, 2023
October 16, 2023
120 (43) e2310138120

Significance

How prehistoric farming became established in Northern Europe, a region that supported dense populations of hunter-gatherer-fishers, has concerned archaeologists for over a century. Through analysis of the organic residues recovered from over 1,000 vessels dating across the transition to farming, we found unexpected consistency in the use of aquatic foods at odds with prevailing narrative of large-scale demographic and economic change. We argue that the ability of farming groups to adapt to their environment by learning hunter-gatherer-fisher practices, combined with dairying, was key to their northerly expansion. We also provide evidence of dairy use by hunter-gatherers which we attribute to long-distance exchange with farmers, implying a much greater degree of interaction and cooperation than previously described.

Abstract

To investigate changes in culinary practices associated with the arrival of farming, we analysed the organic residues of over 1,000 pottery vessels from hunter-gatherer-fisher and early agricultural sites across Northern Europe from the Lower Rhine Basin to the Northeastern Baltic. Here, pottery was widely used by hunter-gatherer-fishers prior to the introduction of domesticated animals and plants. Overall, there was surprising continuity in the way that hunter-gatherer-fishers and farmers used pottery. Both aquatic products and wild plants remained prevalent, a pattern repeated consistently across the study area. We argue that the rapid adaptation of farming communities to exploit coastal and lagoonal resources facilitated their northerly expansion, and in some cases, hunting, gathering, and fishing became the most dominant subsistence strategy. Nevertheless, dairy products frequently appear in pottery associated with the earliest farming groups often mixed with wild plants and fish. Interestingly, we also find compelling evidence of dairy products in hunter-gatherer-fisher Ertebølle pottery, which predates the arrival of domesticated animals. We propose that Ertebølle hunter-gatherer-fishers frequently acquired dairy products through exchange with adjacent farming communities prior to the transition. The continuity observed in pottery use across the transition to farming contrasts with the analysis of human remains which shows substantial demographic change through ancient DNA and, in some cases, a reduction in marine consumption through stable isotope analysis. We postulate that farmers acquired the knowledge and skills they needed to succeed from local hunter-gatherer-fishers but without substantial admixture.

Continue Reading

Data, Materials, and Software Availability

All study data are included in the article and/or supporting information.

Acknowledgments

This project was supported by the European Research Council (ERC) under the European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme (grant agreement no. 695539, “The Innovation, Dispersal and Use of Ceramics in NW Eurasia”). Additional contributions by H.K.R. were supported by a British Academy postdoctoral fellowship (no. R1850601), by E.O. through a Riksbankens Jubileumsfond Pro Futura Scientia Fellowship and an Estonian Research Council personal research grant (PSG492), by D.G. through an Augustinus Fonden grant (no. 22-1518), by S.K. through an Academy of Finland grant (decision 322331), and by J.D. through a European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme under the Marie Skłodowska-Curie programme (grant agreement no. 956351). This project has received additional funding from the ERC under the European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme under grant agreement no. 856488. This project is also supported by the European Union HORIZON Coordination and Support Actions under grant agreement no. 101079396 and from Innovate UK grant number 10063975. Research at the site of Dąbki was conducted under the National Science Centre, Poland (no. 2017/27/B/HS3/00478). We thank Stanislaw Kukawka, Błażej Muzolf, Przemysław Muzolf, Adam Wawrusiewicz, and Gunita Zarina for providing samples. We thank Marise Gorton (University of Bradford) and Matthew von Tersch (University of York) for undertaking the bulk EA-IRMS analyses and Blandine Courel for her former contribution to the project. We also thank the institutions and museums who kindly provided access to their pottery collections and permissions to sample the vessels analysed in this study.

Author contributions

A.L., H.K.R., E.O., C.H., and O.E.C. designed research; A.L., H.K.R., E.O., J.L., G.M., L.G.C., J.D., Ö.D., H.M.T., and O.E.C. performed research; E.D., H.P., K.A., A.C.-Z., D.G., W.G., S.H., J.K., S.K., T.E.L., A.-K.M., T.M., B.P., G.P., V.V., and A.K. contributed new reagents/analytic tools; A.L., H.K.R., E.O., J.L., G.M., L.G.C., J.D., Ö.D., T.R.M., and O.E.C. analyzed data; and A.L., H.K.R., E.O., L.G.C., D.R., J.M., C.H., and O.E.C. wrote the paper.

Competing interests

The authors declare no competing interest.

Supporting Information

Appendix 01 (PDF)
Dataset S01 (XLSX)
Dataset S02 (XLSX)

References

1
K. J. Gron, P. Rowley-Conwy, L. Sørensen, Farmers at the Frontier: A Pan European Perspective on Neolithisation (Oxbow Books, 2020).
2
A. Fischer, K. Kristiansen, The Neolithisation of Denmark: 150 Years of Debate (J. R. Collis, 2002).
3
M. E. Allentoft et al., Population genomics of stone age Eurasia. bioRxiv [Preprint] (2022). https://doi.org/10.1101/2022.05.04.490594 (Accessed 6 May 2022).
4
P. Skoglund et al., Origins and genetic legacy of Neolithic farmers and hunter-gatherers in Europe. Science 336, 466–469 (2012).
5
S. Brace et al., Ancient genomes indicate population replacement in Early Neolithic Britain. Nat. Ecol. Evol. 3, 765–771 (2019).
6
A. Fischer et al., Coast–inland mobility and diet in the Danish Mesolithic and Neolithic: Evidence from stable isotope values of humans and dogs. J. Archaeol. Sci. 34, 2125–2150 (2007).
7
K. Manning et al., The origins and spread of stock-keeping: The role of cultural and environmental influences on early Neolithic animal exploitation in Europe. Antiquity 87, 1046–1059 (2013).
8
G. Eriksson, L. Papmehl-Dufay, K. Lidén, Cultural interaction and change: A multi-isotopic approach to the Neolithization in coastal areas. World Archaeol. 45, 430–446 (2013).
9
P. Jordan, M. Zvelebil, “Ceramics Before Farming: The Dispersal of Pottery Among Prehistoric Eurasian Hunter-Gatherers” (Left Coast Press, 2009).
10
B. Courel et al., Organic residue analysis shows sub-regional patterns in the use of pottery by Northern European hunter-gatherers. R. Soc. Open Sci. 7, 192016 (2020).
11
E. Dolbunova et al., The transmission of pottery technology among prehistoric European hunter-gatherers. Nat. Hum. Behav. 7, 171–183 (2022), https://doi.org/10.1038/s41562-022-01491-8.
12
O. E. Craig et al., Ancient lipids reveal continuity in culinary practices across the transition to agriculture in Northern Europe. Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. U.S.A. 108, 17910–17915 (2011).
13
C. Heron et al., Cooking fish and drinking milk? Patterns in pottery use in the southeastern Baltic, 3300–2400 cal BC. J. Archaeol. Sci. 63, 33–43 (2015).
14
H. K. Robson et al., Diet, cuisine and consumption practices of the first farmers in the southeastern Baltic. Archaeol. Anthropol. Sci. 11, 4011–4024 (2019).
15
L. J. E. Cramp et al., Neolithic dairy farming at the extreme of agriculture in northern Europe. Proc. Biol. Sci. 281, 20140819 (2014).
16
M. Dreshaj, M. Dee, N. Brusgaard, D. Raemaekers, H. Peeters, High-resolution Bayesian chronology of the earliest evidence of domesticated animals in the Dutch wetlands (Hardinxveld-Giessendam archaeological sites). PLoS One 18, e0280619 (2023).
17
A. Kriiska, “The beginning of farming in the Eastern Baltic” in The East European Plain on the Eve of Agriculture, P. M. Dolukhanov, G. R. Sarson, A. M. Shukurov, Eds. (Archaeopress, Oxford, 2009).
18
M. S. Copley et al., Direct chemical evidence for widespread dairying in prehistoric Britain. Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. U.S.A. 100, 1524–1529 (2003).
19
M. Cubas et al., Latitudinal gradient in dairy production with the introduction of farming in Atlantic Europe. Nat. Commun. 11, 2036 (2020).
20
L. Drieu et al., A Neolithic without dairy? Chemical evidence from the content of ceramics from the Pendimoun rock-shelter (Castellar, France, 5750–5150 BCE). J. Archaeol. Sci. Rep. 35, 102682 (2021).
21
R. P. Evershed et al., Dairying, diseases and the evolution of lactase persistence in Europe. Nature 608, 336–345 (2022).
22
M. Zvelebil, L. Domanska, R. Dennell, Harvesting the Sea, Farming the Forest: The Emergence of Neolithic Societies in the Baltic Region (Bloomsbury Publishing, 1998).
23
A. Mittnik et al., The genetic prehistory of the Baltic Sea region. Nat. Commun. 9, 442 (2018).
24
M. E. Allentoft et al., Population genomics of Bronze Age Eurasia. Nature 522, 167–172 (2015).
25
T. Z. T. Jensen et al., A 5700 year-old human genome and oral microbiome from chewed birch pitch. Nat. Commun. 10, 5520 (2019).
26
O. E. Craig et al., Distinguishing wild ruminant lipids by gas chromatography/combustion/isotope ratio mass spectrometry. Rapid Commun. Mass Spectrom. 26, 2359–2364 (2012).
27
K. J. Gron, L. Sørensen, Cultural and economic negotiation: A new perspective on the Neolithic transition of Southern Scandinavia. Antiquity 92, 958–974 (2018).
28
S. Hartz et al., Prehistoric settlements in the South-Western Baltic sea and development of the regional Stone Age economy. Final report of the SINCOS-II-subproject 4. SINCOS II–Sinking coasts: Geosphere, ecosphere and anthroposphere of the Holocene Southern Baltic Sea (2014), pp. 77–210.
29
S. Hartz, D. Heinrich, H. Lübke, “Coastal farmers–The neolithisation of Northernmost Germany” in The Neolithisation of Denmark, A. Fischer, K. Kristensen, Eds. (Collis, Sheffield, 2002), vol. 150, pp. 321–340.
30
T. Terberger, S. Hartz, J. Kabaciński, “Late hunter-gatherer and early farmer contacts in the southern Baltic–A discussion” in Neolithisation as If History Mattered. Process of Neolithisation in North-Western Europe, H. Glørstad, C. Prescott, Eds. (Bricoleur Press, 2009), pp. 257–298.
31
S. Hartz, H. Lübke, T. Terberger, From fish and seal to sheep and cattle: New research into the process of neolithisation in northern Germany. Proc. Br. Acad. 144, 567–594 (2007).
32
L. Klassen, Jade und Kupfer: Untersuchungen zum Neolithisierungsprozess im westlichen Ostseeraum unter besonderer Berücksichtigung der Kulturentwicklung Europas 5500–3500 BC (Aarhus Universitetsforlag, 2004).
33
M. Zvelebil, Mobility, contact, and exchange in the Baltic Sea basin 6000–2000 BC. J. Anthropol. Archaeol. 25, 178–192 (2006).
34
A. Fischer, “Food for feasting? An evaluation of explanations of the neolithisation of Denmark and southern Sweden” in The Neolithisation of Denmark 150 Years of Debate, A. Fischer, K. Kristiansen, Eds. (Oxbow, 2002), pp. 343–393.
35
H. Saul, A. Glykou, O. E. Craig, “Stewing on a theme of cuisine: Biomolecular and interpretive approaches to culinary changes at the transition to agriculture” in Early Farmers: The View from Archaeology and Science$ Early Farmers: The View from Archaeology and Science, A. Whittle, P. Bickle, Eds. (Oxford University Press, 2014), pp. 197–213.
36
N. Milner, O. E. Craig, G. N. Bailey, K. Pedersen, S. H. Andersen, Something fishy in the Neolithic? A re-evaluation of stable isotope analysis of Mesolithic and Neolithic coastal populations Antiquity 78, 9–22 (2004).
37
T. Terberger, J. Burger, F. Lüth, J. Müller, H. Piezonka, Step by step–The neolithisation of Northern Central Europe in the light of stable isotope analyses. J. Archaeol. Sci. 99, 66–86 (2018).
38
L. Smits, H. van der Plicht, Mesolithic and Neolithic human remains in the Netherlands: Physical anthropological and stable isotope investigations. J Archaeol. 1, 55–85 (2009).
39
R. P. Evershed, M. S. Copley, L. Dickson, F. A. Hansel, Experimental evidence for the processing of marine animal products and other commodities containing polyunsaturated fatty acids in pottery vessels. Archaeometry 50, 101–113 (2008).
40
F. A. Hansel, M. S. Copley, L. A. S. Madureira, R. P. Evershed, Thermally produced ω-(o-alkylphenyl) alkanoic acids provide evidence for the processing of marine products in archaeological pottery vessels. Tetrahedron Lett. 45, 2999–3002 (2004).
41
M. Bondetti et al., Investigating the formation and diagnostic value of ω -( o -alkylphenyl)alkanoic acids in ancient pottery. Archaeometry 63, 594–608 (2020), https://doi.org/10.1111/arcm.12631.
42
L. J. E. Cramp et al., Regional diversity in subsistence among early farmers in Southeast Europe revealed by archaeological organic residues. Proc. R. Soc. B 286, 20182347 (2019), https://doi.org/10.1098/rspb.2018.2347.
43
D. Boric, V. Dimitrijevic, Continuity of foraging strategies in Mesolithic-Neolithic transformations: Dating faunal patterns at Lepenski Vir (Serbia). Atti della Società per la preistoria e protostoria della regione Friuli-Venezia Giulia 15, 33–80 (2005).
44
S. Hammann, L. J. E. Cramp, Towards the detection of dietary cereal processing through absorbed lipid biomarkers in archaeological pottery. J. Archaeol. Sci. 93, 74–81 (2018).
45
C. Heron, O. E. Craig, Aquatic resources in foodcrusts: Identification and implication. Radiocarbon 57, 707–719 (2015).
46
L. Kubiak-Martens, O. Brinkkemper, T. F. M. Oudemans, What’s for dinner? Processed food in the coastal area of the northern Netherlands in the Late Neolithic. Veg. Hist. Archaeobot. 24, 47–62 (2015).
47
P. Rowley-Conwy et al., “Foragers and farmers in Mesolithic/Neolithic Europe, 5500–3900 cal BC: Beyond the anthropological comfort zone” in Wild Things: Recent Advances in Palaeolithic and Mesolithic Research, F. W. F. Foulds, H. C. Drinkall, A. R. Perri, D. T. G. Clinnick, J. W. P. Walker, Eds. (Oxbow Books, Oxford, 2014), pp. 185–201.
48
C. J. Stevens, E. R. Crema, S. Shoda, The importance of wild resources as a reflection of the resilience and changing nature of early agricultural systems in East Asia and Europe. Front. Ecol. Evol. 10, 1017909 (2022).
49
L. Saag et al., Extensive farming in Estonia started through a sex-biased migration from the steppe. Curr. Biol. 27, 2185–2193.e6 (2017).
50
L. González Carretero, M. Wollstonecroft, D. Q. Fuller, A methodological approach to the study of archaeological cereal meals: A case study at Çatalhöyük East (Turkey). Veg. Hist. Archaeobot. 26, 415–432 (2017).

Information & Authors

Information

Published in

Go to Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences
Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences
Vol. 120 | No. 43
October 24, 2023
PubMed: 37844237

Classifications

Data, Materials, and Software Availability

All study data are included in the article and/or supporting information.

Submission history

Received: June 19, 2023
Accepted: September 11, 2023
Published online: October 16, 2023
Published in issue: October 24, 2023

Keywords

  1. pottery
  2. hunter-gatherers
  3. early farmers
  4. organic residue analysis
  5. circum-Baltic

Acknowledgments

This project was supported by the European Research Council (ERC) under the European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme (grant agreement no. 695539, “The Innovation, Dispersal and Use of Ceramics in NW Eurasia”). Additional contributions by H.K.R. were supported by a British Academy postdoctoral fellowship (no. R1850601), by E.O. through a Riksbankens Jubileumsfond Pro Futura Scientia Fellowship and an Estonian Research Council personal research grant (PSG492), by D.G. through an Augustinus Fonden grant (no. 22-1518), by S.K. through an Academy of Finland grant (decision 322331), and by J.D. through a European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme under the Marie Skłodowska-Curie programme (grant agreement no. 956351). This project has received additional funding from the ERC under the European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation programme under grant agreement no. 856488. This project is also supported by the European Union HORIZON Coordination and Support Actions under grant agreement no. 101079396 and from Innovate UK grant number 10063975. Research at the site of Dąbki was conducted under the National Science Centre, Poland (no. 2017/27/B/HS3/00478). We thank Stanislaw Kukawka, Błażej Muzolf, Przemysław Muzolf, Adam Wawrusiewicz, and Gunita Zarina for providing samples. We thank Marise Gorton (University of Bradford) and Matthew von Tersch (University of York) for undertaking the bulk EA-IRMS analyses and Blandine Courel for her former contribution to the project. We also thank the institutions and museums who kindly provided access to their pottery collections and permissions to sample the vessels analysed in this study.
Author Contributions
A.L., H.K.R., E.O., C.H., and O.E.C. designed research; A.L., H.K.R., E.O., J.L., G.M., L.G.C., J.D., Ö.D., H.M.T., and O.E.C. performed research; E.D., H.P., K.A., A.C.-Z., D.G., W.G., S.H., J.K., S.K., T.E.L., A.-K.M., T.M., B.P., G.P., V.V., and A.K. contributed new reagents/analytic tools; A.L., H.K.R., E.O., J.L., G.M., L.G.C., J.D., Ö.D., T.R.M., and O.E.C. analyzed data; and A.L., H.K.R., E.O., L.G.C., D.R., J.M., C.H., and O.E.C. wrote the paper.
Competing Interests
The authors declare no competing interest.

Notes

This article is a PNAS Direct Submission.

Authors

Affiliations

BioArCh, Department of Archaeology, University of York, York YO10 5DD, United Kingdom
BioArCh, Department of Archaeology, University of York, York YO10 5DD, United Kingdom
Institute of History and Archaeology, Institute of Chemistry, University of Tartu, Tartu 50411, Estonia
Swedish Collegium for Advanced Study, Uppsala 752 38, Sweden
BioArCh, Department of Archaeology, University of York, York YO10 5DD, United Kingdom
The British Museum, London WC1B 3DG, United Kingdom
Lara González Carretero
BioArCh, Department of Archaeology, University of York, York YO10 5DD, United Kingdom
BioArCh, Department of Archaeology, University of York, York YO10 5DD, United Kingdom
Section for Geobiology, Globe Institute, University of Copenhagen, Copenhagen 1350, Denmark
Özge Demirci
BioArCh, Department of Archaeology, University of York, York YO10 5DD, United Kingdom
Groningen Institute of Archaeology, University of Groningen, Groningen 9712, Netherlands
Ekaterina Dolbunova
The British Museum, London WC1B 3DG, United Kingdom
Department of Archaeology of Eastern Europe and Siberia, State Hermitage Museum, Saint Petersburg 190000, Russia
The British Museum, London WC1B 3DG, United Kingdom
Henny Piezonka
Institute of Prehistoric Archaeology, Department of History and Cultural Studies, Free University, Berlin 14195, Germany
BioArCh, Department of Archaeology, University of York, York YO10 5DD, United Kingdom
Institute of Archaeology, Faculty of History, Nicolaus Copernicus University, Toruń 87-100, Poland
Agnieszka Czekaj-Zastawny https://orcid.org/0000-0001-6171-9930
Centre for Archaeology of Hills and Uplands, Institute of Archaeology and Ethnology, Polish Academy of Sciences, Kraków 00-927, Poland
Museum Lolland-Falster, Nykøbing F. 4800, Denmark
Witold Gumiński
Faculty of Archaeology, University of Warsaw, Warsaw 00-927, Poland
Sönke Hartz
Stiftung Schleswig-Holsteinische Landesmuseen, Schloss Gottorf, Schleswig 24837, Germany
Centre for Archaeology of Hills and Uplands, Institute of Archaeology and Ethnology, Polish Academy of Sciences, Kraków 00-927, Poland
Department of Archaeology, University of Turku, Turku FI-20014, Finland
University Museum of Bergen, Section for Cultural Heritage Management, Bergen 5007, Norway
Ann-Katrin Meyer
Institute of Prehistoric and Protohistoric Archaeology, University of Hamburg, Hamburg 20146, Germany
Cultural Environment Services, The Finnish Heritage Agency, Helsinki 913, Finland
Bente Philippsen
NTNU University Museum, Norwegian University of Science and Technology, Trondheim NO-7491, Norway
Lithuanian Institute of History, Vilnius 01101, Lithuania
Vanda Visocka
Department of History and Archaeology, Faculty of History and Philosophy, University of Latvia, Rīga 1050, Latvia
Aivar Kriiska
Department of Archaeology, Institute of History and Archaeology, University of Tartu, Tartu 50090, Estonia
Groningen Institute of Archaeology, University of Groningen, Groningen 9712, Netherlands
Centre for Baltic and Scandinavian Archaeology, Schleswig 24837, Germany
The British Museum, London WC1B 3DG, United Kingdom
BioArCh, Department of Archaeology, University of York, York YO10 5DD, United Kingdom

Notes

2
To whom correspondence may be addressed. Email: [email protected].
1
A.L. and H.K.R. contributed equally to this work.

Metrics & Citations

Metrics

Note: The article usage is presented with a three- to four-day delay and will update daily once available. Due to ths delay, usage data will not appear immediately following publication. Citation information is sourced from Crossref Cited-by service.


Citation statements

Altmetrics

Citations

If you have the appropriate software installed, you can download article citation data to the citation manager of your choice. Simply select your manager software from the list below and click Download.

View Options

View options

PDF format

Download this article as a PDF file

DOWNLOAD PDF

Get Access

Login options

Check if you have access through your login credentials or your institution to get full access on this article.

Personal login Institutional Login

Recommend to a librarian

Recommend PNAS to a Librarian

Purchase options

Purchase this article to access the full text.

Single Article Purchase

The impact of farming on prehistoric culinary practices throughout Northern Europe
Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences
  • Vol. 120
  • No. 43

Media

Figures

Tables

Other

Share

Share

Share article link

Share on social media